BFCM SPARKLE DAYS
Swimsuit Care Guide
Swimsuit Care Guide
Your swimsuit is the piece of kit that touches chlorine for the longest, dries fastest, and gets the least attention. Most swimmers replace suits twice as often as they need to — not because the suit failed, but because it never had a chance.
The three habits that double the life of your swimsuit:
- Rinse for 30 seconds under cold tap water immediately after every swim — at the pool, before you change.
- Air-dry in shade — never in direct sun, never near heat, never in a sealed bag.
- Hand-wash only with mild soap. No washing machines, no hot water, no harsh detergent.
Rinse your suit under cold tap water for 30 seconds, immediately after every swim. At the pool, before you change. Chlorine starts degrading the fabric the moment it's in contact.
Washing
After your rinse at the pool, wash your suit at home under cold tap water with a small amount of mild soap or specialist swimwear cleaner. The rinse removes most of the chlorine; the soap removes the rest, plus sun cream, body oils, and salt.
- Rinse cold water before anything else
- Use mild soap, hand-wash only
- Press water out gently between hands
- Wash within an hour of leaving the pool
- Put it in the washing machine (even delicate)
- Use hot water, bleach, or fabric softener
- Wring or twist the fabric
- Use regular laundry detergent
For racing tech suits — Arena Powerskin, TYR Venzo, Speedo Fastskin, FINIS Mach — be even more careful. These suits use bonded seams and specialised compressive fabrics that are more delicate than training fabric. Hand-rinse only, gentle pressing, never any soap stronger than swim-specific detergent.
Drying
Lay the suit flat or hang it loosely in a shaded, well-ventilated spot. The two things that destroy a drying swimsuit:
In Saudi Arabia, drying a suit on a balcony or rooftop in summer is enough to age it visibly within weeks. UV breaks down elastane and fades dye faster than chlorine does. Indoor air-drying or shaded balcony only.
- Direct sunlight. Even outside Saudi summer, UV damages the fabric. Always shade.
- Heat sources. Never use a tumble dryer. Never use a hairdryer. Never lay a suit on a radiator. Heat above body temperature damages elastane permanently.
The suit should be fully dry before it goes back in a bag or drawer. A damp suit stored folded develops creases set into the fabric and starts smelling within a day. If you swim daily and your suit isn't fully drying between sessions, rotate two suits — it's cheaper than replacing one suit twice as often.
Storage
Two storage habits to break and one to adopt:
- Stop wrapping your wet suit in your towel. The chlorine soaks into the towel, and the suit stays in damp chemical contact for hours until you get home. Towel-wrapping is the single most common mistake.
- Stop leaving the suit in a sealed plastic bag. No airflow, prolonged chemical contact, fast degradation.
- Use a mesh bag. A mesh bag in your kit bag's wet compartment lets the suit start air-drying on the way home. Most swim backpacks have a dedicated wet compartment; if yours doesn't, a small mesh laundry bag works.
Once fully dry, fold the suit loosely — never tightly compressed. Tight folds set creases that can weaken the fabric along the fold line over time.
Fabric guide
Modern training swimwear uses one of three main fabric families. Knowing what you've got tells you how to care for it.
PBT blends
Best for daily trainingPolybutylene Terephthalate
The most chlorine-resistant family. Found in Arena Powerskin ST, TYR Durafast Elite, FINIS Aquatuff. Holds shape and colour through hundreds of hours of pool use.
Polyester blends
Highly chlorine-resistant, durable, slightly less compressive. Used widely across training suits as a middle-ground option.
Lycra / spandex / elastane
Treat gentlyThe classic swim fabric — soft and stretchy, but more vulnerable to chlorine. Used in recreational suits, beachwear, and tech suit linings. Replace more often.
If you swim more than three times a week, a PBT-blend training suit is worth the extra money. The cost-per-swim is significantly lower than a Lycra suit replaced every few months.
Five things that destroy a suit faster than chlorine
When to replace your suit
Signs your suit has done its time, even if there are no visible holes:
- The fabric looks lighter or faded in patches
- The seat or chest area has gone semi-transparent when wet
- The elastic at the leg or waist has gone loose and no longer snaps back
- The fabric feels "bobbled" or has pills on the surface
- The suit no longer holds you securely — slips, rides up, or feels baggy
Once any of these set in, the suit isn't doing its job. Replace it before it tears mid-session — embarrassing at training, devastating at a meet.
A note on tech suits
Racing tech suits — Arena Powerskin Carbon, TYR Avictor, Speedo LZR — are a different category of investment. They are designed for a limited number of uses and don't respond to standard care the way training suits do.
The typical working life of a tech suit, depending on the model. Track every wear in your training log.
If you race in a tech suit:
- Track the number of times you've worn it — keep a note in your training log
- Never use it for training, only for races and the final couple of pre-race warmups
- Hand rinse only, with no soap unless the manufacturer specifies
- Dry completely flat, in shade, away from any heat
- Store it in the manufacturer's box, not in your kit bag
A tech suit treated this way reaches its full warranty life. A tech suit thrown in a swim bag with wet training kit lasts a third of that.
Built for swimmers who take care of their kit
Most of the training swimwear we carry is built around chlorine-resistant PBT and polyester blends — Arena Powerskin ST, TYR Durafast Elite, FINIS Aquatuff, the full Mad Wave training range. Suits designed to live the year with you.
Free delivery on orders over SAR 300 across KSA. 7-day domestic returns.